Sunday, 24 November 2013

Tutorial: How to Line a Sleeveless Bodice

I love to line my clothing, I don't like seeing seams unless I have to, and usually then I'll French seam them anyway.

Often bodices can be fiddly to line but I recently found a way that has made my life so much easier in regards to lining bodices. It takes a lot less time too!

This tutorial is for a sleeveless bodice where the back piece is in TWO sections [not one]. I haven't tried it for a one piece back yet, but I'm not sure if it will work.

 Cut out your bodice pieces in your chosen fabric. Cut them out again in your chosen lining fabric. You should have two front pieces and four back pieces all up.
Back bodice pieces [left] and front bodice pieces [right].

 Sew the back bodice pieces at the shoulders, press seam open. Repeat with lining.

Place lining onto outer piece, right sides together. Stitch neckline and back bodice centre seams, matching shoulder seams.

Stitch arm hole seams, matching shoulder seams together.
Ignore the flipped up section of the fabric, make sure they are together.

 Clip or notch curves to create a smoother look once turned out the right way.

Turn right way out. I find it easiest to push the back bodice pieces through to the front. Press edges and [optional] top stitch the neckline/back bodice seams ONLY. Don't top stitch the arm holes yet.

So now we are going to stitch the side seams. You need to match the two armhole seams right sides together. They are marked by the white dashes. 

Nest the underarm seams together, so the seam allowances from the two underarm seams go opposite ways to each other. This reduces the seam bulk.

Pin and sew the seam.

 This photo give you an idea of what it looks from the outside before stitching. The green pin by my thumb is holding the outer front and back bodice pieces together and you can just see part of the blue pin at the base of the arm hole.

 Turn out the right way and press. Now you can top stitch the arm holes if you wish.
 Finish off according to your pattern's instructions.
Back pinned closed.

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